I was asked lately
by a miniature enthusiast to demonstrate what is our technique to build
artillery.
The technique
describe below is for 1/32 miniatures. It could apply to other scales I suppose. There are no such things as “the approach” to
do things. That’s the basics of scratch
built; the only limit is your imagination.
Miniature artillery prerequisite 1: Material required
There is no
“standard” list of material. You could
use whatever fits your project.
This stated,
it could be possible that your imagination need to be stimulated for your first
project.
I can suggest
the following list of material for a first built.
- Squared rods :
available in renovation centers
- Round rods;
available in dollar stores
- Carpenter
glue/white glue : available in Renovation center/stationery store
« popsicle »
sticks : available at dollar store (Note : I strongly suggest not to take the ones tinted;
those are almost impossible to paint)
- Thin plywood : could be bought in specialized stores but it
could be pretty expensive. Let be
imaginative for that one. In North America,
we are found of a fruit calls « Clementine ». Those fruits from Morocco come in wooden
crate. It’s cheap way to get thin ply
wood. I suppose you can find something like that in your country.
Miniature artillery prerequisite 2: Tools required
I use a press
drill and a band saw when i do my miniatures.
If you don’t
have those tools, there are hand tools which could be used to do the same tasks.
A heat gun or
hairdryer could be useful for step 3.
Miniature artillery step 1: Choose a good drawing
The best is
to find a scaled drawing of the gun you wish to build.
Unfortunately,
it’s not always possible to find one.
It’s especially true with guns.
There some good sources for tanks and armored cars but less for guns.
For
historical accuracy…
Even though
it’s not primarily goal, it’s still important.
It allow you
to scale you model to avoid such common mistakes like having a too short
barrel, a too big breach etc..
Miniature artillery step 2: Find the wheels
You need to
have the wheel going into any design of your gun. Based on the model you want to do, you have 2
possibilities to get wheels : buy or make.
Buy wheel:
You can buy
wooden wheel on the web or in specialized stores. That’s the most expensive way to get wheels.
You can also
re-use wheel from an old toy for example.
You can also bought one at a dollar store and dismantle it to get your
wheels. Almost 100% of the time, it will
be plastic wheels.
Make wheel
You can make
wheel with a press drill and a hole saw.
Again, we are
not all equipped with that kind of tools.
You can still make your own wheel.
Everything which is round can be use.
Day to day products like pills container , juice bottle etc. could be a source of wheels. There are 3 things to consider in your
choice: diameter required overall look (both based on the model you chose at
Step 1) and already marked center. For
the later, if it is not the case, you will have to find the center of the wheel
yourself. It could be tricky. If you are not ”bang on” the center, your gun
will have a “bumpy” rolling.
Miniature artillery step 3; Design the parts
There are 2
schools of thought related to the design.
My brother
(who is an engineer) prefers to draw the different parts on paper before
cutting anything. By drawing the gun on
paper, you can rapidly see if something is wrong (barrel too long, tails too
short etc). The pros of that technique
is to avoid wasting wood and other materials because you should be close to the
right thing from the beginning. The cons
are that you work in a 2D environment which require to “imagine” you work in
3D. It’s not necessarily easy to do. There are 3D software on the market to do
that kind of drawing but I am not familiar with those.
I prefer to do
my miniature in a “work in progress” approach.
Said in others words , to actually build the thing from ground up. . It
could be possible that you will have to redo some parts but that’s the fun part
of scratch building. This is one reason
why I don’t use expensive material. If
you make a mistake, it’s not a problem.
You just discard the piece and begin again.
Step 3.1
The first
step is to cut the barrel. With the
barrel and the wheels, you can “adjust” the dimension of the carriage, tails
and shield if any.
Barrels can
have many shapes. The main idea is to
reproduce the general silhouette of the barrel.
Don’t consider all the details but the overall shape. It’s especially true if it’s your first
design.
Barrel off-sets
One way of doing the barrel off-sets is to use a
lathe.
I don’t have one so I had to think about another way of
doing things.
One approach I have developed is to use heat shrink
tubing.
Those tubes can be bought at a hardware store on the web
Breech bloc
You can cut
it from the squared rod mention in the material list or from any square piece
of wood which fits.
Another way
of doing a good breech bloc is with dollar store jewel pearls. Some of them are squared and already have a
hole which is very handy.
Recoil cylinder
Most of the time, round rods will be use to reproduce
the recoil mechanism.
Miniature artillery step 4: Build the carriage
The carriage will hold the barrel, the wheels and the
tail.
It’s basically a frame. The squared rods and “popsicle” sticks can be
used to build a “chassis” on which you will put the others parts.
Depending of the type of wheels you have and the type
of gun you want to make, you will need to adjust the carriage structure.
They are many ways.
Here some examples
Miniature artillery step 5; the trail
The trail can be either fixed or mobile.
Again, it depends on the model chosen.
Fixed trail is easier to make. Here some examples:
The open ones require to build swivel arms. The
technique is always the same and can be seen in the following pictures:
Miniature artillery step 6: Shield and Muzzle brake
Not all guns have shield and muzzle brakes.
To make a shield gun, the important is to have the
right thickness of material. Usually the
thinner, the better. If you do war
gaming like we do, you also have to consider “sturdiness”. Often, you will have to do compromise between
look and sturdiness. You don’t want to
have you shield broken after one game.
The muzzle brake is usually done by adding to your
“rod” barrel the appropriate cylinder.
It is also possible to sculpt it but it requires more skills.
That’s all.
I hope that introduction to making miniature artillery
will help you in your projects.
Great Tutorial! Loved the squared bead idea, might have to steal that one. Another way of turning barrels, etc, if you don't have a lathe is to use an electric drill. Obviously the maximum diameter will be limited by the size of the chuck but I used to turn up a lot gun barrels that way before I got my Hobby Lathe.
ReplyDeleteCheers
Col
Thanks Col for your comment. I glad that you like it. About the lathe, thanks for the tip. My next "investment" will be in mini lathe for sure. . If I am patient, I can get a used one for a fare price.
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